Friday, June 6, 2014

   I'm posting today from the city dock of Elizabeth City, NC. We got here early Wednesday afternoon. It's a pretty place with a small park next to the piers. We walked around the old downtown area Wednesday afternoon and, after a much needed "real" shower, walked to a restaurant for dinner. Yesterday and today were stay-put days. Randy did some little jobs here on the boat (we took off with a to-do list for on the way) and I walked about 6 blocks to a laundromat. I only had one large load to do, but the lady on the boat in the slip next to us said there's not much available for the next several days when heading north. She also said about the laundromat, "The place is dirty, but the water is clean." :) And she was right. Nice people working there, though. Yesterday afternoon we went to the Museum of the Albemarle. It's housed in a large new building close to the waterfront and was very well done. Well worth a couple of hours. This morning our neighboring boat captain, Dick Mills, spent over an hour with Randy, giving him advice and tips about what to see and where to stay heading north. He and his wife, Libby, were very nice and very helpful to us.
   Now I'm going to backtrack a week or so. Over Memorial Day weekend our son, Craig, and his family came to Tennessee to see us before we left. We had a great visit but, as always, it was just too short. On Tuesday, May 27, we said goodbye to our daughter, Rachel, and her family and headed out for Oriental, NC. Our good friends, Stanley and Juanita Swartzel, went with us so they could take our car back home. We spent Wednesday sailing with them on the Neuse River and the weather and the company were both great. Then the next morning, another goodbye (ugh, it's hard) and they left for home.

   The next few days were spent with final projects and preparations. Friends at the yacht club were nice enough to run us in town (about 3 miles) or loan us a car when we needed one more part or forgotten item. They also threw a bon voyage party for us on Friday evening, then threatened to cut our dock lines when we didn't leave for two more days. :) A special thank you to Robert and Susan for their encouragement and help, for Bob and Robin for quick canvas work for us (it looks great!), to dock masters Lisa and Paul, and to everyone else there that gave such a beautiful welcome to these "newbies". Sea Harbour Yacht Club is a first rate facility with first rate people.

Sunset at Sea Harbour Yacht Club. Taken from the stern of our boat.

Sea Harbour Yacht Club

   On Monday morning, June 2, we coiled our dock lines and "sailed off". Well, actually, the wind was not good, so we motored. A lot of this Great Loop trip will be motoring because the intercostal waterway follows a lot of creeks and rivers where there isn't really room to sail. We headed out of the Neuse River, then into Bay River and into Gale Creek and Goose Creek. Coming from out west, as we did, a creek is sometimes a trickle of water you can jump over. Out here they can be a mile wide. At the Pamlico River we were able to put the sails up and be a sailboat. We sailed up the Pungo River a ways before losing our breeze, and turned into Pungo Creek to anchor for the night.

A cormorant dries his wings on a channel marker in the Pungo River.
The Pungo River and the best seat in the house.

   On Tuesday we continued up the Pungo River and then into the man-made Pungo-Alligator Canal. It connects the Pungo with the Alligator River and crosses a swampy area for 18 miles. I enjoyed it for the first hour (understand that we motor at about 6 mph), then told Randy I wouldn't want to do it for 2 days. :) It was pretty but just straight and a lot of the same scenery. I think he enjoyed it more. We anchored that evening at the beginning of Alligator River. After dinner we took a "cruiser's bath" off the swim platform of the boat. The water was chilly but not bad. Later we got to wondering why it's called the "Alligator" River! Maybe because there are alligators? :) Still don't know.

Our wake in the Pungo-Alligator Canal. In the distance is one of 2 bridges you go under on the canal.

A doe and her fawn on the bank of the canal.

Anchored for the night at the head of the Alligator River.

   Wednesday morning we got underway about 6:30 because we had heard that the Alligator River and Albemarle Sound, that it empies into, can be pretty rough water. We wanted to leave ourselves plenty of time to make it to Elizabeth City. Well, we hit a very benign day! We put out the sails shortly after taking off and sailed down the Alligator River, across Albemarle Sound, and up the Pasquotank River almost to Elizabeth City. Beautiful!! The only worry we had was dodging crab pots all the way across the sound and half way up the Pasquotank. But we didn't tangle in one, so all is well. We arrived at the pier and our dock lines were caught by the "welcome committee", the Rose Buddies. Since the 1980's there have been various local retired men that meet and welcome boaters to their city. They used to bring a rose to every boat docking here. They were very nice and helpful.

A memorial to the two original "Rose Buddies".

The free city docks. We stayed here three nights and enjoyed the city.

   And this is where I came in with this posting. We're heading north again tomorrow and into the Dismal Swamp Canal. We've heard it really isn't dismal. More on that next time. Keep your sails trimmed.

2 comments:

  1. Wow! How interesting!! Love the story of the Rose Buddies and the city dock is such a great idea and shows the hospitality of the south and the North Carolinians. I think I see at least 5 alligator heads in your picture of the anchor site on the Alligator River....heh heh. Maybe just crab pots!? Crazy people...bathing with the alligators! :) We miss y'all already! But, excited for ya! Love Ya!
    Stanley & Juanita :)

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  2. WOOT!!!! So glad to hear from you! Glad your journey is a good one. Take care, have fun, and know we are praying for you!!!1

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